Whether it’s a fact or a general stereotype, it’s a common belief that New Yorkers love to wear black clothing. So it could be seen as a pretty risky move when a new label presents its fall collection at NYFW, without sending any black clothes down the runway. Unless you’re Sander Lak, that is.
Boasting an impressive resumé (Central Saint Martins graduate under the late Louise Wilson, work experiences at Marc Jacobs, Phillip Lim, Balmain, and most notably the head of design at Dries Van Noten for five years), Lak’s new label, Sies Marjan, made a remarkable impression during its much-anticipated debut in February. Just to gauge how high expectations were for this brand new label, the attendees had some of fashion’s most influential people, including Anna Wintour, Natalie Massenet, Cathy Horyn, and buyers from Barneys.
Set in an unfinished penthouse in Tribeca, the collection started off with looks more appropriate for spring than fall: a soft floral print translated into bias-cut dresses and loose separates, a belted long coat in a colorful abstract print, and an oversized camel sweater with extra long sleeves half-tucked into a wispy floral skirt. The effect was ‘90s grunge juxtaposed with feminine elements, emitting a je ne sais quoi attitude that is so inherently cool, aptly dubbed by WWD as ‘next generation chic.’
While bright colors are typically sparse for fall collections, Lak broke this mold by featuring multiple all-yellow looks: a yellow silk top and cropped cargo pants under a velvety yellow coat, a linen jacquard suit paired with bright yellow mules, and a midi dress with a side slit. Neutral shades with Lak’s youthful spin resulted in shearling goatskin coats, cropped camel pants paired with a silk cranberry turtleneck, a white top with oversized ruffles, and silk mauve skirts with asymmetric ruching. Navy tones ended the show: tailored jackets, utilitarian pinstripe suits, oversized button-down shirts, and drawstring pinstripe pants.
While the Dries influence is evident in Lak’s confident use of clashing color palettes and textures, it is his ability to create eclectic yet easy and wearable clothing that has put Sies Marjan on everyone’s radar.
—words by Megan Que